thoughts from a week's distance

Another TGIF, the last of my promised series on my time in Japan. A week late, but more reflective than it would have been last Friday.

A week and 12 hours ago, I departed from Tokyo's Narita Airport, aboard a Boeing 777, headed for O'Hare, where I would argue with TSA about whether or not 2oz bottles of liquid had to be labeled, and then board a 727 for a very sleepy two hour flight to Providence, my home.

Every day since I've returned I've been asked how my trip was. And rarely at those moments have I had a terribly concise answer, nor do I feel any more capable of giving one now. The short, and entirely non-representative answer is to say that it was amazing. But in my life, I've described many things as amazing: learning to ride a fixed-gear bicycle; learning to build bicycle wheels; working with 15 students for all four years of high school; a dark chocolate cake with orange-infused butter cream frosting and a raspberry compote made for a friend's birthday; sex; the photos captured by my digital SLR.

I find that English falls short of providing me with terms effective for describing my reaction. It's said that the Eskimo language includes some 20 words for snow, and I know that Japanese provides easily 5 different words for tuna: language adapts to include descriptive nouns for things which are most important for a culture. Words I'd like to use for the trip make me think I should have deleted less of the new age music that I got from Charly Adler: life-changing, thought-provoking, inspirational. (Those terms also instill in me a fear of being charged with over-hypenation.)

Thinking about it now, in the hindsight of re-entry into the US, I must approach the topic in pieces. The major areas of my learning and observation were:

• the Japanese educational system


• a general overview of Japanese society and culture


• digital photography workflow


• Americans being asked to work within Japanese group-think


• my future life goals and aspirations


• my personal highlights from the trip

The Japanese Educational System

My first introduction to the Japanese educational system came while I was writing my application to the Japan Fulbright Memorial Fund Teacher Program, last October and November. I did a bit of research on the web, and I found TIMSS results that showed Japanese students outperforming most of their international peers on standardized math tests. I read more, and found an analysis that Japanese teachers heavily favor spending classtime with students discussing and working to understand the concepts underlying the mathematics they're learning, and that there is a nearly zero interruption rate in Japanese classrooms, by either students or administrators. Needless to say, I got really excited. This sounded like a system where students were encouraged to form their own ideas, to share those ideas, and that this all happens in an orderly environment where everyone is respected and appreciated. Observing mathematics instruction in Japanese classrooms became a part of my goal for the trip, and went into my follow-on plan.

Over the summer and into the fall the Institute of International Education and also the JFMF sent me information on Japanese schools, to provide background knowledge. Compulsory education only goes through 9th grade; senior high school (years 10, 11, and 12) and optional, but attended by 97% of the population. And so on.

The third meeting with education in Japan came in Japan, on a lower level of the New Otani Hotel in Tokyo. The topic was Education Reform in Japan, but the lecture didn't fit that description very well. We heard a lot about the problems in Japanese education: kids who can't think creatively enough, kids who aren't good problem solvers, kids who rebel from the strong traditions of Japan, kids who don't value harmony the way the rest of the culture does. We heard about declining test scores, knew lots or reasons reform is needed, but heard nothing about reform, nothing about their plans or initiatives or where ideas for reform are coming from. This I found strange.

There is an idea still kicking around in my head: how did the US-led rebuilding of Japan after WWII change the Japanese educational system? It seems there are many parallels and similarities in our two countries' educational systems, both problems and strengths. Is this the result our rebuilding the infrastructure of the country? Am I wrong in my observations and deductions of the similarities? Certainly an area of research...

And at that, it's time for me to send this to be published... I'll continue writing my thoughts on my blog, and could publish them in TGIF's, if people are interested. Otherwise, find it on my blog: kipinjapan.blogspot.com.

Finally, one more thing: I owe my thanks, one more time, to the staff of Shepard who supported me and my students in making this trip possible.

Ja mata!
-キップ-
Kippu

sitting at Shogan's Mountain Villa...update from the last few days...

Konbonwa!

It was Friday when last I updated, so forgive me as I outline my thoughts of the last two days, when have been incredibly hectic and filled. Currently I'm sitting on the grass, separated by 3 feet and a handful of rocks from a koi pond being fed by a small waterfall. We're staying tonight at a Ryokan - a traditional Japanese inn, a bed and breakfast. Traditional and modern at the same time: beautiful architecture and surroundings, tatami floors in the rooms and futon mattresses will be pulled out while we're eating dinner to sleep on, but with a flat-screen TV in the room, locking doors, and electric paper lamps to illuminate the garden I'm sitting in when it gets dark. There is however, no internet access. So this'll be another posting that sits for a day before being sent out. Tomorrow we wake here, I'll visit the communal bath, and then we're off to the Kumamoto airport to return to Tokyo. On Wednesday we make a presentation to the other 180 teachers, and we hear theirs, sharing highlights from our host cities. And then, both finally and sadly, I depart from Tokyo's Narita airport on Thursday morning, to return to Providence that same afternoon, thanks to the International Date Line.

But that's the future, and there's a good 72 hours that need to be chronicled. And that's where we go next...

I'm going to write the events as a series of posts...order be damned.

-Kippu

The Homestay, day 2

or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb** Kubrick reference...

Sunday morning, had breakfast with the family. Eggs cooked Japanese-style - which means effectively an omelette that's been rolled into a, well, a roll, and then sliced into pieces, perfect for eating with chopsticks. We also had left-over salad from the night before, some fruit, and a wonderful hot drink called soba, made from the same stuff as soba noodles. I was sent back with some to make on my own. It's supposed to be good for the blood.

So we get into the car, head out to the ferry landing, to cross the Ariake Sea, over to Nagasaki. The drive was easy and quick. I passed the time sharing my camera with the older son, and working on my Japanese with the younger one. Eventually I took out my Japanese phrasebook, and began saying whatever was on the page I opened to at random. I think this gave the family quite a thrill...

On the ferry we parked the car and went above deck. It seems my host father knows everyone - on the ferry there, and again on the way back, we met former colleagues from his schools, former students, and younger sisters of his former students. And everyone was welcoming and warm, and an English teacher tried his skills out on me. I must admit that his English improved more than my Japanese did...

Then we arrived at Nagasaki, parking near a gift shop (with some great t-shirts!), and walked to the peace statue, then down the peace memorial mall, finally to the atomic bomb museum, our true destination.

I have been asked frequently what I thought of the museum, how moving it was, heartbreaking, heartwrenching...and I haven't really known how to reply. So here's a summary:

The museum is very well put together. It features remains of Nagasaki that have been brought together, including pieces of local churches and schools, clothes of people exposed to the blast, and small pieces of glass, formed into beads after stained glass windows were turned instantly molten and then instantly cooled again. There was also a section describing the physical conditions at the moment of the blast: incredible temperatures and pressure at the hypocenter, the incredible winds blowing structures over and deforming huge pieces of metal, the layer of oil of water in the bay rendering it undrinkable. There is a wealth of information on the effects of radiation associated with the detonation of the atomic bomb, going into depth about the immediate and long-term effects. There are testimonies by both short- and long-term survivors, and a memorial to a foreign doctor who was in Nagasaki at 11:02 on August 9th, and worked to help as many people as he could, before finally succumbing to radiation sickness years later. And there is poetry:

The words of surrender
Mingle with the flames
Of my wife's funeral pyre
-Atsoyuki Matsuo

And finally, nearly half of the museum, is dedicated to the mission of peace and nuclear disarmament. There are excepts of letters from scientists and politicians stating their concerns over the use of nuclear weapons; there is an enormous amount information on the history of nuclear technology, both in weapons production and energy-creation, and accidents related to both uses; there are thousands of origami cranes, folded to ask for peace in the world.

Ample evidence is given to support the viewpoint of the atomic bombs that I have come to understand while in Japan: it is a travesty that the bombs were dropped, but to move forward means to remember it and to learn from it, working to ensure that it is never repeated in the human future. (Two hours ago I read of the North Korean nuclear test, the UN's sanction response, and the NK response to it as a 'declaration of war,' citing principally the US's need for control. In Nagasaki, at the peace statue, there were a group of people protesting the actions of North Korea; at that point, I had not idea this was happening.)

Lunch that afternoon was in Chinatown. (I let my host father pay the ¥200 admission fee for the museum, on the understanding that I would be allowed to buy lunch. Turns out, even in Japan, it's not uncommon to back out of a deal.) Food had nothing in common with Chinese food I've had in the past. Not better, not worse, but I must admit I'll stick with my General Tso's chicken.

Then the day was over, so we headed back to the ferry. Late. Missed the ferry. We called Naoko-san to apologize, and it turns out she made a reservation for 15 of us for dinner that night.

We got back at 6, two hours late. Out to dinner with my host family, Jean and her host daughter (Hikomi) and Hikomi's sister, Miki-san (our wonderful translator), Virginia, MaryAnn, and another woman, a tea ceremony performer, who wanted me to teach her English.

After dinner, bowling. Even in Japan, bowling is exactly the same, and I'm not better than in the states. What I would have given for a pool table...

キップ

The Homestay, day 1

JFMF staff in Tokyo worked with a fair amount of zest to prepare us for the homestay. Horror stories abounded...or just one. In Japan, the traditional evening bath consists of washing oneself before entering the tub, lathering well and then rinsing off very carefully. And then, once thoroughly cleaned, getting into a piping hot bath. We were told of one JFMF'er who splashed the water in the bath to give the impression of having gone in, and having not fooled the people who needed fooling - the host family. There was the advice of getting in and not cooling the water off, just getting used to the temperature slowly, because usually the family would invite the guest to go first, and the rest of the family would be sharing the same water. There was the advice to not drain the water, for the reason just mentioned. We were told to be sure to bring pj's with us, and to use the toilet first - the toilet and bath are separated in Japanese culture.

And there were of course other concerns. How much English would the family speak? How to avoid awkward silences? How to communicate food preferences? How to adequately thank people for having us? What if we totally hated the food they served us? What if we just didn't get along?

Each of these ran through my head, but only for a while. Last Monday we met our host families, just for an hour. But that was enough to ensure that I'd recognize them when I saw them again, yesterday. It also gave us a chance to talk and make plans for our time together: I deemed to say that I liked to cook, and Saturday night I baked two pizzas for my host family. (Not my greatest work, mainly due to my own insecurity, fear, and perhaps a bit of the quality of the cheese and flour, but they seemed to like it, even the two boys who may not yet know how to smile and fake it.)

Then 4 days passed, including one trip to the internet cafe, from whence my last posts were sent. And I want to interject a bit about the internet cafe, because it is very notable. It was located in Omuta City, in the Fukuoka province, a 20 minute cab ride away from Arao City in Kumamoto, where we were staying. Arao is the size and feel of Coopersville, Michigan...small, agricultural, and Omuta is more like Grand Rapids. Kumamoto and Fukuoka are two of the 47 prefectures in Japan, very akin to our states in governmental terms. So, 20 minutes in a cab, and we're at the internet cafe. We go in...they're nice to the gaijin...and they set us up. This place is wild. Easily 40 little stalls with desktop computers, plus another 15 that are a bit bigger with futons and wide desks, and some even with two machines. People come here to play video games, chat online, watch movies (there was a DVD selection you could choose from), read manga, play pool, sing karaoke, drink unlimited soda, coffee, and eat soft serve ice cream. Cost was ¥500 for 1 hour, or ¥1100 for 5 hours. And naturally, they're open 24 hours. There was a magazine selection, everything from technology to Asian pornography. All included in the price. Probably an interesting place to visit at 3am.

Internet cafe comes and goes...2 hours later we're back at Hotel Verde in Arao. Off to a restaurant purported to serve basashi - raw horse meat. Not my favorite Japanese dish, but felt I should try it - and Andrew and Jenny were quite excited...who am I to say no? We went, ordered Mr Ed and chicken and salad and sushi. I tried a tiny bit - about the size of a dime...I did swallow, but didn't take a second bite. I was done. Went to the grocery store, bought a gift bag and a bottle of sake to take to my host family, and was done for the night.

Saturday morning, the day started off with a tea ceremony. I made traditional Japanese tea for my host father, Isao; his wife, Etsuko, was performing in the tea ceremony, looking beautiful in her kimono, the younger son, Hikaru, was running around, and the other, Rikaru, was at home asleep. Traditional tea used in the tea ceremony is powdered, so it brews quickly, meaning that it tends to be bitter. This tea was no exception, hence it's always served with some sweets, eaten before the tea. Then we went into the tatami room to experience a truly traditional tea ceremony, prepared by a master who's been doing it for (I'm trying to remember here) 70 years.

After tea, we had lunch with our host family (again, dad and youngest son), and then departed for the host home. Mom was still cleaning up from the tea ceremony, so she came back later. So dad and I sat at the kitchen table and talked: things we like to do, educational systems in Japan and the US, his work as a vice-principal, etc. Mom came home, we all talked, and then went to the grocery store. The list included cheese and vegetables to make a pizza, as well as a sizable hauling of sushi. We returned home, I began making dough, as as it was rising dad and the two sons and I went to see the sunset on top of a mountain home to a Shinto shrine. Beautiful.

Somewhere in here it occurred to me...I'm really relaxed. Their house is, in many ways, Japanese. Slippers or socks are worn indoors; specific slippers are always worn to the toilet; the sons share a room of tatami floor where futons are put down at night. But it's also quite Western: clutter in most corners of the house, signs and labels in English, cuckoo clocks in the kitchen...and did I mention the clutter? It felt very much like being at home.

Dinner was great: baked salmon, a salad, sushi and pizza (which I made for them!). I had a bit of the sake I brought, and dad finished the rest of it. Then we headed out for the department store to do some shopping, which they helped me with - thank god. No way I could have gotten all the information we were being given. Then home...and to the bath.

And this is, frankly (upcoming pun fully intended), where it gets most interesting. First floor, there's the bath room...literally, where the family bathes. I'm told to go first. I go to my room, get my pj's, and return. I close the door, and get undressed...and the door opens...it's the youngest, Hikaru, son who needs to finish brushing his teeth. And he seems to think nothing of the totally naked white guy who's looking rather mortified. 30 seconds later he leaves, I breathe again, and go into the next room, which closes with a shower door, because it is in fact, a very large shower. There's a deep tub, as well as an area of the floor which can drain, where you wash yourself. I turn on the water...and the younger son comes in again. Me, just as mortified. He proceeds to tell me, very nicely, which soap to use for my hair (in Japanese, but with infinitely useful hand gestures) and for my body (likewise, Japanese and universal 'body soap' gestures). And then leaves.

I stand there for a second, laugh out loud, and begin to wash. Things go well, I realize I really like this system. And then the bath. Again, I've been told it's really, really hot. So I put a toe in - I can sacrifice a toe in the name of all that's important to my body...and it's okay. Really okay. Warm, hot even, but bearable. And not even in that one-inch-at-a-time-oh-god-i'm-only-up-to-my-shins kind of bad, but rather the ohhh-nice-I-can-sink-right-in kind of feeling. So I do.

And shortly thereafter I remember the question being asked about baths while we were still in Tokyo...once you get in, how long so you stay? The answer: it's going to be so incredibly hot, you should go for 5 minutes as a goal, but you may not make it. And here I am, in a really wonderful bath, great temperature calm and peaceful, and having lost all sense of time. So a few more deep breaths, a bit of playing with a squirt gun left on the side of the bath (love houses with kids), and I extricate myself, towel off, say my thanks, and go to bed.

The bed stood about 20 inches from the floor, and consisted of 2 tatami mats on a bed frame, with a 2" futon mattress on top. Absolutely wonderful sleep that night. I woke up at 7:15 in the morning, went downstairs for breakfast...and that's where the story stops for the moment. See Homestay Day 2 for the continuation...

TGIF - again, another Met thing

Please bear with me gentle reader: these musings are directly specifically at the staff of the Met in Providence and Newport, Rhode Island.

Ohayo gozaimas! (Good morning!) 7am on Friday morning in the City of Arao, in the Kumamoto Prefecture, on the Kyushu (que-shew) Island, sitting in the lobby of the Hotel Verde. The overwhelming color theme is green...could you have guessed?

I've been rereading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, fitting for a number of reasons. First, Zen is a flavor of Buddhism that developed in Japan, with the belief that enlightenment could be achieved within a single lifetime; I am currently in Japan. Buddhism and enlightenment are very much internally-focused; when I travel, inevitably 51% of the learning I do is about myself and very personal. I miss my bicycles deeply; a bicycle is kinda like a motorcycle. The author talks in the style of a Chataqua (I may have butchered the spelling), telling a long, winding story; I feel I could do the same with my learning while I've been here. Finally, the author makes a statement just after the title page, which I'll paraphrase here: 'This book is not a fair representation of the body of thought which is Zen Buddhism, and it isn't very accurate about motorcycles either'; likewise, this portion of my Chataqua isn't a great representation of what I've learned, and it isn't very accurate about Japanese culture either. Still, Pirsig and I have both made honest attempts. Reading Zen on the plane got my head into the space of a Chataqua - almost as a motorcycle trip would (oh, and I want to move to Japan and buy a Confederate Hellcat).

Beginning, as Pirsig did, with surface-level observations, it seems at first that Japan and the US exist as a world of dichotomies. As if I were making a Venn diagram, I'll start with the center piece. Our educational systems are very similar: students attend three schools through their career (elementary, junior high and senior high schools); teachers get frustrated with students who aren't engaged, aren't thinking creatively, budget restraints, families who aren't supportive enough, not being paid enough for the amount of time spent working; teachers hope for the best for their students; there is a desire for reform, but no definite plan for how to make that happen; there is an attempt at balance between academic demands and the desire to allow students to grow as people, enjoying their lives and education, and growing at their own pace.

Differences seem to be much fewer: Japanese teachers and schools seem to get much more respect than in the states (but when we meet with parents we may see a set of different feelings); the schools we've seen (and this may be a function of visiting Arao, a largely rural area, or that I've taught in Baltimore and Providence, two rather urban areas) place importance on the physical space of the school, including green, landscaping and the quality of the building spaces; students here engage in daily cleaning of the school space, as a way of building community and taking responsibility. A really fantastic idea.

Today we're at Arao Third Junior High School, aka Arao Daisan JHS (san is three). In order to make things fluid for myself, and readable for you, throughout this post I will be taking notes from the meetings we have with faculty of the school, and will be formatting those in italics.

The school motto here is: 'Beautiful Flowers Always Have Brilliant Roots', and they strive to deliver 'Education Centering on Fundamentals and Basics.'

Schools often say that discipline is a very important issue in education; I wonder if this is a reference to teacher-imposed discipline, or if it is rather self-discipline which they want to instill in students. A statement was just made that they work to instill discipline by various school functions such as trips to climb mountains and camping; challenging students to pull through difficult situations would seem to imply a focus on self-discipline, which supersedes teacher-inspired discipline. I should try to remember to ask that later.

Looking into deeper places...
Japanese culture places strong emphasis on duty, harmony, and peace. School culture is built around small duties given to students - such as cleaning, taking care of plants and greeting visitors. (Present at the Met, but not everywhere.) There is an obvious dichotomy between individuals and the society which must be wrestled with: youngsters have a desire to express themselves, but society frowns on that; even when kids have been seen to have freedom (like walking around in Shibuya in Tokyo) they still conform to certain standards...boys wearing jeans and torn or weathered suit coats, and girls in short skirts with calf- or knee-high boots...these outfits are so ubiquitous to be entirely conformist.

The focus on conformity has some really interesting effects on the education methods I've seen in classrooms. Largely, a lecture style of teaching is used. A math class, in the first 30 minutes, students said hello to the teacher, and then for about 2 minutes, after he'd been talking for a while, he asked students to reinforce the learning with each other; definitely a great technique, but it doesn't go far enough.

Kumamoto style of education: thorough and pro-active. The school uses no bells to indicate end of courses; instead, they want students to develop self-reliance. A book I must read, TR Reid's Confucius Lives Next Door.

So there are some things I'd like to make clear, and may be, in doing so, wrapping up today's Chataqua. First, I am quite enamored with Japan and its culture: dichotomies thrill me, and this is an onion which allows, even asks itself to be peeled back, revealing yet deeper layers and hidden secret; tatami mat rooms and rice-paper walls and sliding doors and natural light and natural wood colors all make me feel happy and serene; the architecture here is simple and calming and focusing, even when it is mixed with modern materials and building techniques. And their educational system hasn't had it easy: we destroyed the country's infrastructure during WWII (most of which was decimated even before the two atomic bombs were dropped), and then we helped them rebuild from there. There is a natural evolution to an educational system, and I wonder if WWII didn't change it in some way, taking it from what it would have been now, putting it off course. A few years ago there was educational reform in the country, resulting in the shortening of the hours students spend in school, with the hope of families having more influence over students; in the view of our handler/wrangler, Naoko-san, it was a failure.

Tomorrow is, for me, the pinnacle of this journey. We begin our home stay...at 1030 we have a tea ceremony with our host families, then at 1300 we depart with them for 26 hours. I am absolutely thrilled. I know that tomorrow I'll wake nervous and scared, but that will wane quickly and I'll be excited as all get out.

Thoughts of my students run rampant, even and especially here. There are so many things said about the Japanese school system, and children here, that are addressed by things at the Met, and some concerns are exactly the same. I wonder how well students get socialized here. Boys will be boys, and girls, girls. Which means that boys are often roughhousing with each other, and you can see some who are clearly a bit more mature and stand back just a little bit. And girls get giggly...that's their initial reaction to most stressors it seems. There is so very little student input during class - entirely teacher-centered - and the kids are well-behaved enough that it probably seems like it works. But even here, in a society which prefers peace and homogeneity, where we're told that the saying 'the nail which sticks up gets hammered down' still stands, kids who stand out in class are encouraged or forced to remain silent. Kids who don't get it or are falling behind do, and those who have the opportunity to excel and move beyond the limits of what the teacher is presenting at that moment don't, probably get bored, eventually frustrated, and probably don't meet their potential. I don't know how to ask about that and be politically correct (ie. be ye not the nail), elsewise I would.

So, the question which begs to be asked....would it be possible to open a Big Picture School in Japan???

I kid you not...I can see it now...

Advisory on tatami mat floors, eveyone wearing slippers, leaving their street shoes at the entrance way; real world learning for all of us - language for the BPOL coaches and internships and independence for students and families, and continuing the culture of community and harmony while building up the individual's sense of responsibility... A beautiful blending I can envision as beautiful and effective.

And now, just about two weeks into the trip, I must admit I'd give my arm for a think slice of multigrain break from Seven Stars, organic and unsweetened peanut butter from Whole Foods, and tomato-basil soup of ingredients from Scratch Farm, grown in Cranston. But tonight will be basashi (raw horsemeat), sushi, and a wonderful mushroom-rice dish. I'll go easy on the basashi.

Peace-
Kippu

Arao City, Daiichi Elementary School

In Japanese, daiichi means number one (ichi is one).

It is amazing to me, to be reminded of how much the staff of a school, universally, determines the feel of the environment. At the elementary school, we saw the students coming into school. They had time to play together...many of them were riding unicycles, some on stilts, some checking on the chickens and turtle the school keeps in a coop.

The day was spent with time observing in classrooms (we were given the freedom to roam and stop into any classroom we chose), meeting with teachers and administrators, watching a student performance prepared especially for us, eating lunch with a class of students, attending short 'workshops' prepared by students for our visitation, and finally attending a question and answer session with teachers.

Some accumulated facts:
the school teaches 1-6th grade; most lessons are taught as a combination of lecture and practice; lecture is the traditional teaching method, but there is a statement in the school that it is not always effecting, so sometimes students are taken out of the classroom; students are taken camping in various places, students go on field trips (6th graders will be going overnight to to Nagasaki); it is also notable that the math class I saw students were using origami to demonstrate mastery of types of triangles, the calligraphy class was very hands-on with students practicing in writing kanji characters and then gluing them to a board (a really excellent demonstration of student work).

There is a time-frame they call 'integrated study' - and what does that mean? Thanks Ken, for the great question. Answer wasn't entirely clear...what I do know is that starting in 3rd grade students get 105 hours per year of integrated study. The topic for integrated study, as well as textbooks and materials to be used, are at the discretion of the school.

Some students may bring into school issues from their home lives that make it difficult for them to learn...how is this addressed at Daiichi elementary school? There are school counselors...but it sounds like they only work at the middle school level. Homeroom teachers will also talk together about how to help kids, and go further up the food chain as necessary.

Ohayo gozaimas! Final thoughts from the day, prepared the next morning: many things are universal, like teacher jokes about time we spend, amount we're paid, how we're respected, and how kids are. Doesn't matter which side of the planet, some things are exactly the same. Kids have a generally really great attitude; I think the happiness that (most) kids carry has the ability to overcome whatever kinds of pressure to assume a bad mood may exerted by educators. Teachers here seemed to honestly enjoy working with their students.

And at the end of the day, I was absolutely wiped out. Had dinner last night at an Italian place; it was deemed as 'not selling out' because the menu was all in Japanese, and we had to work really hard to get what we wanted. And the food was pretty good.

Today, Friday, is in a middle school. Last school we visit; tomorrow we go to our homestay. Tonight we're getting to the internet cafe so send off a ton of stuff...

Peace,
Kippu

from Arao City, in the Kumamoto Prefecture, on the Kyushu island of Japan

The last three days have been incredibly busy...
It's currently Wednesday afternoon... I need to outline the previous days for the sake of my own memory...

On Sunday we flew from Tokyo to Fukuoka, where we had dinner, explored a bit, and slept.

Monday we visited the Miyazaki Brothers' house. The Miyazaki brothers were heavily influenced by the writing of a Chinese revolutionary, and they worked in their own lives to assist the cause of the Chinese revolution. Monday for lunch we ate at a Japanese-style Korean barbecue restaurant. Fantastic. It's the kind of place were you cook your own meats; we had wonderful beef and pork. Also served: kimm-che, a rice-mushroom dish, a very light broth soup, and refreshing sorbet (potentially pineapple). In the afternoon we created pottery: we made mugs at a center that teaches and preserves Shodai-yaki styles. And at the same location we met our home stay families. This was probably the most moving part of the trip: 20 Japanese families, all willing to bring an American stranger into their homes. I will be staying with the Kodama family: Isao and Etsuko are the father and mother, and they have two sons, Rikaru and Hikaru. They're wonderful people. Their English is very workable (it's certainly more Japanese than I speak), and they're very open to me. I really enjoyed talking to them, even though it was only for 30 minutes or so. I have no doubt that the home stay will be the absolute highlight of my trip to Japan.

Tuesday (yesterday), in the morning we met with the Mayor of Arao; it was incredible, really touching. He was incredibly warm, and although we only met with him for 40 minutes or so, he even came down to wave goodbye to our bus as we were leaving! Lunch was very rushed... and in the afternoon we traveled to Kumamoto university, where we met with students who are studying English education. Notable fact: Kumamoto and Montana and sister states, and many people at Kumamoto university have spent time at the University of Montana. We heard some beautiful music at the university, a duet by a violinist and a koto (similar to a harpsichord). Between the university and the hotel, we stopped by to see Kumamoto castle, a spectacular piece of work. The mote was easily 40 feet deep and 30 feet across, clearly defensible.

Today, Wednesday, has been spent visiting our first school. We broke the group of 20 into two, with one group visiting Arao public high school, and the second, mine and superior, has been at Ariako high school, a private high school. This has been very insightful; there are not enormous differences between this school and typical high schools in the United States. I have seen teachers largely lecturing, students sitting in desks, taking notes, and in some cases, students having side conversations during class. Girls are giggly, and seem to view Americans as pseudo-rockstars, and to hear Andrew say it, I not only get most of their attention, but apparently I enjoy it as well. Who knew? I must say, that when visiting the nursing facility and the teacher wanted me to volunteer to serve as a patient for a sponge bath to be administered by a half-dozen pink clad 19 year old nursing students, I passed, vehemently. Oh, and get your mind out of the gutter; t'was a foot sponge bath I was asked to serve as a patient for.

It is notable that teachers in this school, when asked to compare their school with schools in Tokyo, say that they enjoy the slower and simpler pace of life, which allows them to connect more readily with their students. Definitely a topic that resonates with me...

When asked about school culture, and relationships with students... students with more behavior problems get more attention, they get to sit closer, efforts are made to involve them in school as actively as possible.

Tonight was supposed to be an internet night...looks like it's going to have to wait a day. So this post gets saved, a new one gets started, and the schedule is to get both up tomorrow.

-Kippu

and now one from Omuta, Fukuoka prefecture

Yesterday was a travel day, flying from Tokyo to the Kumamoto airport. Observations about Japan: all the airports, big and small, are really clean, well maintained, and well-staffed. They also don't mind flying big planes, such as a Boeing 777, the same equipment used for the SFO to Tokyo flight, for 2 hour flights, more than half empty. It was really nice, don't get me wrong, to be able to walk around the plane for nearly the entire flight, but it seems a bit wasteful.

Last night we went out in Omuta to find a place to eat. This is a great little town...has the feel of a Providence or Baltimore in some ways...small, lots of residential areas. We found a great little restaurant: leave shoes at the steps, no one speaks English (lots of saying single words like 'vegetable,' 'tuna, 'chicken' in Japanese, and wait for the waitress to a) indicate she had no idea what we were talking about, b) nod wildly and say something really positive (i think), or c) make a little 'X' with her index fingers, shake her head, and frown. Not the most efficient communication in the world, but it worked. Had a dinner of miso soup, chicken skewers, raw tuna (sashimi - prepared without rice), and a wonderful seafood salad.

In two hours we depart via bus for Arao in the Kumamoto prefecture. Today we're meeting our host families for 90 minutes, and in 5 days we go to stay with them. We also get to make some pottery later today. The next few days include meeting with the Arao mayor, visiting 3 schools of different grade levels, and then a home stay for two days and one night (which is causing me a bit of anxiety), a stay in a ryokan, and then back to Tokyo. In Tokyo we present for 15 minutes on our experience in Arao, and listen to everyone else present about their own host cities. We have two nights left in Tokyo... I have a number of places to get to/get back to there. I have a real desire to go out to a Japanese house/trance club to go dancing....

And now it's breakfast time. Internet will be sporadic at best from here on out....but posts will be coming, as well as photos. i've got a ton of stuff from the last few days, but travel days are hard days to get stuff sorted and up.

With that I leave you, headed for nutrients and sustenance.

Peace-
Kippu

truly last posting from Tokyo

should have internet tonight. photos will be a-coming.

today is day two of sun...it was overcast or downright pouring for the time since we arrived. yesterday was beautiful, and so is today. Fuji-san is visible from Andrew's room. I have some photos...they'll be up later.

Peace-
Kippu

almost last posting from Tokyo

This morning we leave Tokyo for our host prefecture (equivalent to a state, in terms of government), Kumamoto. We're flying because it's at the very southwest end of the country, on the Kyushu island - pronounced 'que-shoe.' There we'll be meeting with the mayor, making pottery, visiting cultural sites, and visiting three schools (high, middle, and elementary). We also spend one night and two days with a host family, people who have opened their home to one of us. I'll be with a couple, married, in their 40's, who have two sons, 8 and 13. The father is a teacher, and the mother works part-time. They have been asked to create a plan for what we'll do while we're there...I'm looking forward to meeting them!

The downside: we've been told there's no internet access at our hotel. We do however have access to a mineral spring in the hotel, as well as laundry facilities...the mineral spring makes a good trade. There is an internet cafe some distance away, and I will find it, but probably not everyday. So please be patient with me, dear reader. I'll send more stories when I can.

Yesterday was out free day...and I spent it entirely the way I wanted to. Exploring Tokyo.

5am: wake up and pack my large bag, which was to be shipped to Kumamoto.

6am: breakfast. 6:20, depart to find sumo wrestling practice. 7:45am, arrive at sumo practice.

The stable, also known as the dojo, is where practice happens. It is a gorgeous building: stainless steel exterior, and when you open the front door, ancient iconography (I have a photo...search for 'sumo' as a tag in my photos). The entire interior is beautiful woods, and we have to take our shoes off and collect a tatami mat to sit on. And we watch, listen, smell. The smell of the place was unmistakable: human sweat infusing itself into the dirt in the ring, into the wood of the walls. The dirt held its own smell, so after practice when they swept the dirt back into the ring the smell changed slightly; they also use a powder - could be gymnastics chalk or more like baby powder - to mark lines in the floor and dry their hands, and this carries its own smell. A photo was taken of my with a wrestler later in the day, and he carried the same smell with him. There was an unforgettable sound as well: the smack of a good hit, of skin on skin, shoulders and chests colliding, easily 500 pounds of momentum being thrown together. Every 30 seconds this sound was repeated. Their practice, from what we saw, consisted mainly of practice fights: two wrestlers, looking each other in the eyes. The can delay the start of the match by not putting their fists on the ground. Once they crouch, the fists go to the dirt, and once all four are there, they both spring into action, driving towards the other one, pushing with massive thighs. The fight ends when one goes down, or much more common, when one goes outside the boundaries of the ring. The visions: wrestlers, from almost-massive, almost-sumo wrestler looking guys (not as big as the professionals), to big boys overweight and still developing muscle, to a single, incredibly lean and muscular one, looks more like a marathon runner than anything else...probably cross-training for another martial art.

We stayed for almost 2 hours. The practice ended with the cleaning of the space, and the smell of delicious foods being prepared in a barely-hidden kitchen. Smells of bread, rice, and fish. These guys must consume some incredible amounts of food...

Departed, found a closed bike shop (with a Bridgestone sign), and then a small clothing store where things were bought by Ken and Jenny. Continued walking, found a park with a Buddhist temple - beautiful and not filled with camera-armed-teacher-tourists. Finally to the Edo-Tokyo museum, to walk through their permanent collection. It held some incredible artifacts of Japanese history, including models of Edo-period feudal castles. Spent money in the museum store, got some gifts to return home. Lunch in a tiny road-side restaurant: pointed at dishes in a class case, handed those exact dishes which were then replenished. Had tofu, rice, a whole fish, squash, eggplant, seaweed salad. ¥500 each...about $4.50. Found the sumo museum for Ken, who stayed to watch a tournament. Haven't seen him again...did he challenge of one these guys and become the new national champion or was he beaten and then sent to sumo boot camp? Or did he simply not return to the hotel near the time I did? I will probably find out today.

Headed then to Shibuya, which may be the Times Square of Japan. And if it's not, it's in close running. Incredible place: this is where you can find Japanese non-conformity, lots of young people, lots of diversity. Lots of tourists, too. It also houses what claims to be the busiest intersection in the world. It's an interesting one: 2 roads intersect, which is normal. One gets to go, then the other. And all the while, pedestrians can't, so they're building up at the crosswalks, and they do build up. It starts with 5 or 10 people and grows, in the course of a light, to 100 or 200...on each corner. If I'm at all close, that's 800 people waiting to cross the street. And not only to cross the across the street, as normal. There are also cross walks going diagonally across the intersection - traffic is obviously entirely stopped. When the light changes there is a sea...no, rather a flood of people entering the intersection and moving fluidly around each other. Totally unreal.

Visited a bunch of shops, souvenirs and gifts were bought. The most memorably find for me was a CD called 'Smooth,' a house/trance/soul kind of piece...published by a label in Chicago. Didn't buy it. There wasn't any Japanese script on it at all...I'll find it at home. What will be most remembered is the mass of people, the huge change from everything else I've seen here, the diversity, that this is what most people think of Japan: bright lights, pachinko parlors bleeping and beeping and chiming madly, masses of business men in suits and Japanese school girls in plaid skirts and teens in their rebellious outfits of torn jeans and hip sport coats. Then we returned to the hotel, collected our selves, I saved photos to my computer and began editing some of them, went out for dinner, returned to the hotel, and fell fast asleep. It's now 5am. Time to get camera and flash together, and head out to see what I can find. Breakfast begins in an hour, and in a few I'll be able to upload this post and some photos from yesterday.

Not sure when I'll have internet access again. I will certainly try, and will tentatively guarantee another post by Wednesday, all things going as planned.

Be well, be good to yourself, and be good to others.

-Kippu

TGIF - it's a met thing

On a weekly basis, staff at Met schools write a page or so that gets published for all of the small schools to read... One of the things I've agreed to do while in Japan is to write a TGIF each week to be published for all the staff in Providence and Newport... Not that I want to instill any jealousy. 'Course not. So, dear reader, enjoy this segway. I promise its gyro won't fail and dump you on your rear.

Friday, October 6th, 1:35pm, Tokyo. In the Hotel New Otani, Tokyo, Japan. In Providence, it's 12:35am, which means my TGIF is either 95 minutes late, or it's due in just a bit under 11 1/2 hours. I'm going to go with the second.

Last Thursday I had a chocolate party with my students; Friday I spent at our development day, thinking about my final packing steps. Saturday, I picked up my business cards ('meishi') from Kinkos, bought a flash unit for my camera, finished packing, dropped off information for my advisory at school, and tried to tie up some loose ends. And I think I did a pretty good job.

Sunday, 6am...TF Green airport, waiting to fly to Washington DC. A couple of hours later: in DC, waiting to fly to San Francisco.

Switch to Pacific time, 3 hours beyond Providence. 12 noon, hotel in San Francisco, starting to meet 200 people who will also be traveling to Japan. Lunch, orientation...getting talked to by this one guy with 28 plus 1 points of importance to remember while we're in Japan. Then dinner and a reception...Kip breaks out the new suit. Sexy mama... but I digress.

Next morning, 5am (time change is a killer): out for a run. Almost met a skunk. Took wonderful photos of San Francisco bay. 1pm, board a plane to Tokyo.

Next day, 5pm, plane lands in Tokyo. 8pm: at airport, off to dinner with a Japanese university student (who went to Brown!), and 10pm, passed out, asleep.

The goal of the above narrative was to give you a bit of insight to how this trip started...

What I've learned so far:
Japan is a hugely homogeneous society: most everyone dresses very well and very similarly (dark suits). Japan is a very polite society: I've seen none of the arguments I'd expect to see in Providence over the course of a week. Many educators in the world feel that having people sit in a chair and listen at someone talking is a reasonable way for someone to learn; apparently that's the way education in Japan goes; it doesn't work so well for me. There is a very surprising thought that many Japanese hold of the atomic bombs that were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and that is the piece I'd like to focus on.

I participated in a session this morning with three speakers: one of whom is a survivor from Hiroshima, and the two others were daughters of survivors of Hiroshima, both of whom had fathers pass in recent years, as a result of radiation-induced illness, connected to the bombing. All three were exceptionally moving. The general feel is that the Japanese view this as a terrible tragedy, but something that can be learned from. The goal is now to work to create a world without nuclear weapons. Of course there are still people who don't share this view, and are more angry...but thanks to Japanese standards of behavior, people don't express this. Either that, or my understanding of the language is poor enough that I miss their anger entirely.

Tomorrow is a whole day to explore Tokyo... I can't wait. Looks like I'll venture out, get lost on the subway, check out some temples, collect some amazing photos, pick up some gifts to bring back for students and staff and friends. I want to have sushi for breakfast again...that was the best meal EVER this morning. Tuna and salmon...the most perfect fish. Yum. Now I want it for dinner, too. Sunday we travel to Arao, a small city on the southern-most island, and 60km from Nagasaki...which I absolutely must visit. At Hiroshima there's a peace-focused memorial, and I hope that Nagasaki offers something similar. Then we explore Arao for a bit, visit elementary, junior and senior high schools, and spend a day and night with a host family.

There has been a huge amount to take in over the last few days, and I've been pretty good about updating my blog and uploading photos (check those out, please... kipinjapan.blogspot.com). Hope things in Providence are good...it's raining like crazy here.

Peace
:Kippu-san

promises and the next few days

It has been very hard to keep up with the blog postings... I have to limit my time online to 10 minutes, so I can upload a bunch of posts at that time, but I don't have regular internet access - because I don't want to pay for it. I just sent up a bunch of postings...enjoy those.

Tomorrow is a free day, so I'm going to explore Tokyo. On Sunday we begin traveling to the Kumamoto prefecture, where we're spending 12 days. During that time internet will continue to be sporadic, but I'll do my best.

Kippu

Lecture on Peace Education

Speakers: Koji Ikeda, Tomoko Yanagi, Migiwa Ishtani, introduced by David H Satterwhite

Mr. Satterwall: Senator Fulbright, who proposed a system of shared learning between the US and Japan post-WWII, deserves a large amount of credit for beginning conversations about peace. This session is in no way an attempt to cast blame regarding the nuclear bombings of cities in Japan, but it is an opportunity to hear from individuals who either survived themselves, or their parents did, one of the two bombings.

First, Ms. Yanagi, born in Hiroshima, a 'second generation' A-bomb survivor.
Points: radioactivity; perspective of other Asian countries on the bombing; work in Hiroshima on peace education.

One of the questions I've long had is now answered: were there any effects of radiation on the children of women who were pregnant at the time of the bombing? The answer: yes. Ms. Yanagi had a cancerous growth in her throat, most likely the result of radiation poisoning while her mother was pregnant. (She had surgery, and is now okay.)

August 6th, 1945, 8:15am.

According to Ms Yanagi, when people speak about Hiroshima, especially survivors, their goal is not to justify a grudge against the US; instead, it is their goal to speak to the need for world peace, understanding. This surprised me at first: it seems that a grudge would be well deserved. However, on second thought, it makes sense: Japanese culture is largely concerned with the group, the whole. This is a philosophy echoed in Buddhism. On a global scale, if the world's citizens can learn from the stories and experiences of A-bomb survivors, then the Japanese loss of life will serve a purpose.

Next: Koji Ikeda, a Hiroshima survivor, newly married on August 6th, and with a young baby. He was standing in the backyard, holding his child, when he heard a single B-29 flying overhead; there were no air raid sirens...then a sound, a light, and the explosive waves. Complete darkness. Either hell or complete paradise, or something worse. Darkness cleared, and people began moving again... He survived, as did his wife and child. His wife was badly burned...

Everything was on fire. People converged on the rivers, safe places to be when everything else was on fire. But in places oil was dripping into the water, and catching on fire. There were corpses in the water, which began to flow downriver; many people, burned badly, had gone to the river to get something to drink. The explosion had caused the river to reverse direction, and there was no water left near the epicenter - it had been blown up river; when people went to the river the water returned and crushed them, in the style of a tsumani.

I stopped taking notes, out of respect. His talk was very moving - as a man of nearly 90, he has a great deal of feeling and thought about his experiences.

Finally, Migiwa Ishtani. She is the daughter of a Hiroshima survivor, who worked for peace most of his life. He passed 5 years ago, as a result of cancer related to nuclear radiation.

This whole presentation was amazing and moving. All three have been deeply affected by the American decision to drop the atomic bomb on Hiroshima. It has reinforced my desire and drive to visit Nagasaki while in Arao. It'll be tight, but it is now a non-negotiable.

-Kippu

Sushi for Breakfast, Tokyo like Blade Runner, and 120 pound frozen tuna

This morning, woke at 2:30am. Ventured to the window, set up my tripod, and took a half dozen images of Tokyo, with a feel similar to Blade Runner. Really love the digital format: it makes this kind of thing much easier...and I know the photos I got are good. In fact, they're beautiful, and should be posted soon.

Met Andrew at the elevator (Jenny wussed out on us, which I thought Andrew would do instead) and we left at 3 for the fish market, or at least intended to. The first three cab drivers we spoke with didn't understand enough English to get us there, so we retreated to the warm dryness of the hotel - A to his room for a map, and me to the front desk to ask for help. We both got the info we needed, and headed out, this time successfully talking to a cab driver (relatively speaking - we did get there) and left the cab at 3:45. Then we started walking; through alleys, down streets, past lots of fish sellers and 24hr sushi restaurants, knowing we'd know the fish market when we arrived there. So we walked, and walked, and finally arrived at a bee-hive of activity, with men on standing motorized carts whipping by, certainly not about to slow for a couple of Americans. This place had to be a 6 or 7 acre processing facility, filled with people smartly wearing rubber galoshes, buzzing around, moving fish on palettes and in foam containers. And live fish: still swimming in small tanks, or eels in buckets being separated out. And dying fish: not dying in the tragic slow-and-painful sense, but rather with a knife cutting quickly and effectively through some artery just below the head. But it didn't always work: there was a particular tank of eels, all of whom were supposed to be dead, but one was turning, slowly, writhing even...he apparently hadn't gotten the message.

And then the tuna. This part was amazing: easily 3 or 4 feet long, being thrown out the back of trucks steaming with dry ice; more being slid than thrown out the back, landing on a tire laid flat, bouncing once into the pavement. They were frozen and white from condensation, being weighed, coming up at 60kg average (a bit over 120 pounds); already gutted (no innards or eyes), this was pure meat, ready to be sold or auctioned off. And there was a warehouse full of these fish, lined up along the floor, being dragged along by hooks, getting sliced by the only tool capable: a band saw.

It was almost enough to make me rethink out breakfast plan, but not enough. So we ventured back out, entirely soaked, smelling a bit of the fish market, we found a beautiful sushi place, probably open 24 hours. We were there at 430 or so, the only Americans in the place. Two pieces each of tuna and two each of salmon. The most amazing fish I've ever had, fresh as anything, with wonderful green tea, got out for ¥840 total. And really enjoyed my time with Andrew. He's also 32, teaches in Indiana, loves to travel, especially being out and getting lost in new places. Great traveling buddy: we're both in the group going to Arao.

And then to back up: last night, totally tired, long long day...went out for pizza. Fantastic thin crust, ¥1000 yen each...not even coming close to the amount they've given us, which makes me really happy. Dinner was with Jenny and Andrew...both 32, our birthdays are in March, April, and May. Pretty amazing coincidence, eh? And we're all traveling to the same area.

Morning stuff is about to start, and I need to check through some photos for you, kind reader, so I can get them up to flickr.

I miss you all, wish you were here...

Peace,
Kippu

Thursday Afternoon Lecture with Representatives from the Japanese Government

The economist speaks first - claims to be ignorant about political affairs in Japan.

From a minister of state, working on internal affairs (a woman, worth noting): Japan has experienced its own bubble economy. The last prime minister has been given a lot of credit for reforming the way the government works. The country was suffering from a large budget deficit, and the PM planned to downsize the government, but worked to ensure that there was no loss of services to the citizens.

The current prime minister has worked to continue this change. He also wants to create social change, and a key area of concern is gender equality. In the September 2005 general election, the ruling party put up a number of female candidates, and campaigned to ensure that they all won, which they did.

There is also a declining birth rate, which is a great concern. Last year was the first time that the total population was seen to decline. While it was a very small percentage, it caused concern. Namely, there are concerns about work/life balance, and also strain on the retirement system. There are initiatives to help this: free birth system; free new-child care; support for families; increase stipend for families with infants; increased numbers of childcare centers across the country. Also, shorter working hours, so that people have the opportunity to enjoy their family lives. As more women are educated, and more opportunities are given to women...70% of women resign when they have their first child. The goal is to support women, to reduce the number of women who must quit working. There is a deep mindset that it is too ambitious for women to both work and to have a family life. It is a priority of the state to ensure that women take advantage of child-care and leave, to reduce the number of women who quit working. For women who have already left, the goal is to train women to prepare them to return to the work force. The rate of marriage, in the last six months, has been on the rise again (after declining for the last 20 years); this is am unexpected benefit of the work that is being done in the Diet (government) to promote gender equality, allowing women more choices, to have their cake and eat it too. There has also been an initiative to support women getting a graduate degree, and to encourage them to step outside of academia to create change in other areas. The world, and the country, are becoming more knowledge-based, and therefore education is becoming more and more important. Math and science: women are typically steered away; teachers may, even unknowingly, discourage girls from pursuing math and science education and jobs.

Tired, very very tired. Sleepy. Jet lag, fried food for lunch, lots and lots of sitting and listening. It's incredible to be in Japan, but it's hard to stay excited about it when there's this much time inside, in a hotel, eating very western food. Tonight - a bit of sushi for dinner. Tomorrow, a Japanese style breakfast.

Peace-
Kip

Ginza in review

Last night, with a group of 10 loud, obnoxious Americans, took the Tokyo Metro to Ginza.

Ginza is what we think of when we think of Tokyo: bright lights, name brands, names lit up in neon.

And it is also very much not what we think of when we think of Tokyo: it was not at all crowded. It wasn't loud. The signs weren't all that big and overbearing.

It is definitely a tourist area...Tim saw two Asian women on the street, asked them to take a photo with me, they tried to decline saying they weren't Japanese. I responded 'Neither are we' (clearly, this is Kip at his wittiest), and they agreed.

There's an Apple store. I need to know what's different in the Tokyo Apple store. Possibilities: Nano cases and the new Shuffle.

photos and updates

Hi all...
I have a TON of photos from a Kabuki demonstration yesterday, as well as some from the Tokyo Metro system, and a post about Ginza, the bright lights part of Tokyo, which we visited last night. I'll get those up as soon as I can... probably round noon today...which is 11pm in Providence.

Kip

back to the first 19 hours in japan

26 hours ago I landed at the Nakita airport, outside of Tokyo. It was a 10 1/2 hour flight, in very tight seats. Thankfully, there was an open seat to my left, so the guy on the far side of it and I shared a bit of extra leg room. But still, I stood in the back galley for 2 hours, just to avoid sitting down. And I managed to sleep for about an hour...that was of course the last hour we were on the plane...could've slept more.

Got to the airport - spectacularly clean and calm. Customs was easy - they didn't want anything to do with me. Asked me why I was there, what was in my bags, and send me out. Then we got on a bus...again, crammed seats, and only sleeping for the end of the trip, to the hotel. Get to the room, and it is beautiful. Gorgeous furnishings - all really nice wood. The bed is low, and really firm. Just the way I like it. The sheets are high quality, soft and simple cotton. And the bathroom rocks my world: the shower has two controls, one for water flow and another for water temperature...with a push-button to make it really hot - because it will scorch you on full power. And the best, which I only noticed after this morning's shower - there is a heating element behind the mirror. The mirror is big - probably 4 feet wide and 3 feet tall. But there's a rectangle, 18 inches by 12 inches, in line with the sink, that doesn't fog up. Perfect for shaving. I love this place.

Then last night, dinner, went out to dinner with a Japanese university student, studying foreign relations, who went to Brown University! A group of four of us went to a small restaurant selling food in the tekkan-yani style...grilled or somesuch. Had good food and reasonably good conversation...and the bill only came to ¥850 for each of us...about $8. Fantastic. We've got a food allowance of ¥2000 for dinner each night when we're not being fed, and I'd love to stay under that for a while, be able to afford a really great meal later in the trip.

This morning, up at 530. Went for a run, got lost, had to ask a cop how to get back to the hotel. A good thing really - once I'm lost in a place and find my way back, getting lost there never scares me again. There is some wonderful architecture in this city. Tomorrow morning, the plan it to go and find some of it, before we start our sightseeing at 820.

Breakfast - well done. Lots of pastries, fresh omelets, fruit. Then another orientation (we had on in San Francisco Sunday evening), followed by a talk on the Japanese educational system. Then lunch, a bit of posting and email writing, and then Japanese theater performances and lecture. It was fantastic. The best part was a Kabuki actor (female) who shared with us the whole process of putting on make-up. She applied her make-up right on stage! (Photos are available on flickr.) Then she performed a piece with two 'singers' and a musician accompanying her. It was beautiful, really cool. A bit disappointing in a way though - it was held in the hotel. I really want to have more time to get out and explore Tokyo...so tonight I'm headed out with a few others to Ginza - the part of town that looks like Times Square in NYC, all lights and marquees and electronic Coke signs.

Oh - the Japanese love vending machines. Every corner here there's one, selling all types of stuff. But the best was in the international terminal at SFO...there were two bigger wending machines...one to buy iPods and accessories, and another for Motorola phones and accessories. Wild. iPods, $300 iPods...put in your credit card, make your selection, and somehow it gets to the door for you to get it. I considered buying a case for my Nano, just to see it work, but I didn't.

The internet situation in the hotel is such: I could pay by the day, ¥2100, or I can pay for a 10 minute block, ¥200. Today I managed to send out 10 emails, download 30 new ones, send up two blog updated, upload 5 photos...all in less than 10 minutes. I believe that will be the way to go here. I don't want to spend ¥2100, because if I do I'll be reluctant to be away from the internet at all. I can get stuff up in those 10 minutes, and it'll work just fine.

Need to sort through photos to publish for you, and then off to Ginza. This'll go out to you tomorrow!

Peace, Kippu

first full day in Tokyo

I will get another post up later today, reflecting on my experiences yesterday...

Currently, I'm in a session, with a lecture given by a speaker from the Japanese National Institution for Academic Degrees and University Evaluation.

His talk is on Education Reform in Japan, and I'm already shocked and learning new things.

Japan has a nearly 0% literacy rate; compulsory education goes to 10th grade, but 98% of students continue to upper secondary education, and 50% onto higher education. But the Japanese government isn't happy...

A quote from his presentation: "[Japanese Children] have large amounts of knowledge but lack in 'Ability to learn and think by themselves' and 'Ability to apply this knowledge.'"

They want to produce more creative individuals and provide more diversity and flexibility in our their educational system. They want to give children Room to Grow and Zest for Living. Can't help but think of the Met...there are some things we do really well. Japan sees a problem with their kids not developing a sense of community or caring for others...again, some things we can do relatively well.

They are having problems with the decline of their younger generation: lethargy, apathy, refusal to attend school. A little less than 3% of students who should be attending lower secondary schools (7th - 9th) refuse to attend school. Art-focused schools seem to beat these odds.

Nationally, there is a 2-2.5% drop-out rate.

Japan is a country very focused on pride and honor, therefore shame and disgrace are some of the worst emotions, and feed into how decisions are made and how change is started.

Patterns definitely exist: students in lower elementary schools are the most likely to be violent to each other and to teachers; elementary school students are the most likely to be involved in bullying. I wonder how readily this matches to the data on schools in the US. They claim that violence is difficult to control...that seems like an obvious enough statement.

A government research institute compared Japan, US, and China. The research method was a questionnaire filled out by high school students, asking them how bad they thought different behaviors are, in terms of social ethics. The most noticeable result is that Japanese students see rebelling against parents and teachers as overwhelmingly acceptable; our speaker makes a connection to lack of parental discipline in the home. The results from another study, conducted the same way, shows that kids in the US feel they are very frequently "disciplined" by parents, and that it rarely happens in Japan. It is noticeable that the questionnaire asked about how often students are told 'Don't tell a lie,' 'Be kind to friends,' 'TV in moderation,' 'Use good manners.' It is possible that this is a matter of how much US kids feel their parents harp on these issues, or it could be that Japanese parents really don't push. But I don't think US parents generally get this message across to their kids. There's another interesting piece of data: the amount of time parents (broken by father and mother) spend with their children. In Japan the values are lower than most other countries, as counted in hours...father is 3.32 and mother is 7.44. By comparison, in the US the values are 3.64 for the father and 7.52 for the mother. Where does this come from? The time is per week, assuming a five-day work week plus a two day weekend. Another really interesting one...in Japan parents are shown as being dissatisfied with their children (about 35% from age 10-12), and for comparison in the US it's 85% for the same age. Looks like high expectations, but not enough positive support for kids when they do right. Catch kids being good...

In terms of academics, data comes from two main sources: IEA (International Association for Evaluation of Educational Achievement) and PISA (Program for International Student Assessment). IEA's studies focus on knowledge - what have kids learned, mastered, memorized. PISA's focus is on student's ability to apply skills and knowledge to real-world situations.

We're looking at data, one interesting statistic: from 1995 to 1999, 8th graders were asked if math was their favorite subject. The responses went from 53% to 48%, while the international average went from 68% up to 72%. Across the globe, kids liked math better, but in Japan, this number went down. And I ask the question - how does the importance of math change over this time? Yes, mathematical reasoning skills are important, and get more important as technology becomes more and more prevalent. BUT - are the tests being updated to reflect the skills needed to work within this technological world?

The PISA data also looks bad - in math students performed worse from 1994-2000, and 2000-2002.

The obvious question: how is educational reform being designed to cope with these problems? Disengagement from education? Lack of family involvement?

One comment: traditionally, Japanese culture favors teamwork and sacrifice for the group; there is a clash between that tradition and the desire to allow students to grow individually.

This afternoon, we get to experience traditional Japanese theater - first Kyogen and then Kabuki. It's being brought to our hotel, but I'd rather go out into the community to see it...but alas. I'm going to have to be sure to get to the performance room early to get a front-row seat, and get some good photos.

Speaking of photos - I have some uploaded to my flickr site, of my hotel room, and also the Tokyo skyline as visible from the 40th floor of the hotel. Click here

one hour to departure...the real one

The last 36 hours have been incredible: flying into San Francisco, meeting everyone else (200 others!), orientation information. Now we're in the airport, waiting to board the plane which will take us to Tokyo, Japan, to the Narita airport. A 12 hour journey, which shoots us into tomorrow...it's 12:37 according to my computer, and we're due to land at 4:30 tomorrow afternoon, local time.

Reflections so far: it's going to take some work to make connections between this and my kids. Must be creative with this one. Lots of people can do direct instruction or create projects around their experiences: for me those won't work. My kids have their own curricula. It must be more about modeling, sharing my learning with them and then encouraging them to find ways of making things happen for themselves. Perhaps by taking the fullest advantage of this opportunity possible, I can show my students how to do the same in their own lives.

Took a bunch of photos this morning...finally got a few of them uploaded to my flickr page. Still am not sure how the technology piece is going to work. I also want to create more in my blog...go beyond my thoughts, begin to tell a story. Perhaps I can find a way to do that...

I must say that I am impressed with the quality, intelligence, and passion of the other educators here. There are some really fantastic people; I must remember to accept them and to be open to meeting new people - now always my strongest trait. Must work on that.

My host family in Arao: parents are in their 40's, and they have two sons, 8 and 13. No pets unfortunately (but I may have put down that I'm allergic). I'm really excited about that part - people in the past seem to have had an exceptionally good time with their host families.

And considering my free day...I am thinking of exploring Tokyo, independently. I will have lots and lots of time to be social...this may be the ideal time to take a break for social and go explore on my own, or with perhaps one other person. We'll see once that time gets closer.

Figured out how to use my new SB-600 as a remote flash, controlled by the on-camera flash on the D200. Very excited about that. Check for the blue flower on flickr...I think the lighting is great on that...the SB-600 was about 80 degrees to the left of the camera.

Boarding...peace.

Kippu

35 minutes until the first flight of this journey

Yesterday - whirlwind of activity. Left me feeling totally fried and unable to sleep. Went to be at 12 and got up at 4:15 with no problem. Easiest morning ever. New mantra for traveling: when leaving early in the morning, pack EVERYTHING. I've been up for an hour and a half and I just put on my watch...it was in my bag waiting for me to get to it.

It's amazing, but yes, I got done with everything on my list, plus a few. Decided on the flash, as iChat can't cut through the Met's firewalls, so that seemed most logical, and no one really seemed to know how to connect from iChat to a corporate video-conferencing set-up. So instead I went with the flash, to improve the quality of images I bring back. And to increase the weight of stuff I'm carrying around. But alas, not a big deal.

(Got to Dulles International Airport in Washington DC about 10 minutes ago. My next flight, to San Francisco, departs in 90 minutes. It was a small United Express Plane - 45 passenger, the kind that tried to take off from a short runway in Kentucky a few months ago...apparently this time it wasn't a problem.)

one hour into the flight - Washington to San Francisco...

One thing I've always hated about flying, airline food. Years ago there were two airlines that had good food: United and Continental. Nowadays, that has significantly changed. I flew Continental this June to Alaska, and the food was bad. Today, United Airlines, they no longer have free food. They sell meals - and while some of it doesn't look so bad, I really have no desire or willingness to pay for it.

That and I swear airline seats are getting smaller. There's absolutely no room to move these days. Tomorrow, 12 hours, is going to be rough.